Item and Tools Required
Perform at your own risk!
The information for this tutorial is based on my own experiences. It is meant to be working
instructions for the DIY'er attempting to perform this job at home. These instructions are how I
performed this procedure. I take no personal responsibility for any damage you may incur by
following these instructions.
Secure vehicle on jack stands. Always use jack stands when
working under the vehicle.
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Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
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Installation of Extra O2 Bung
If installing new headers it’s easier to have this done prior to
installing the headers on the vehicle. Ensure that the extra bung
is not installed to far near the rear of the collector, as the O2
sensor may contact the heat shield once installed.
If installing the extra bung in the stock exhaust system, ensure
the the bung is placed upstream of the cats.
Route the cabling from the O2 sensor up by the firewall and
over the brake booster. Make sure to keep any connectors
away from the header or exhaust manifold. Use zip-ties to
secure the cabling to other objects.
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Time required to complete the job: ~ 2.0 hours, not including header install.
Wideband O2 Sensor and Module - I chose PLX Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Module
Blue Electrical Butt Connectors - Can be purchased from AutoZone
Butt Connector Crimping Tool
Side Cutters and Wire Strippers
Duct Tape
Cable Ties
Wire Fish or Stiff Wire about 3ft. Long (I used an old antenna)
Insdustrial Strength Velcro
7/8” Wrench to Install O2 Sensor
Fuse Tap or Equivalent Item
9mm Wrench
Utility or Xacto Knife
Rubbing Alcohol
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On the drivers side firewall there is a rubber plug that is
accessable from inside the vehicle. Place a shop towel in
between the kick panel/carpet and body. This will prevent the
plug from falling behind the panel. Remove the plug and put to
the side for use later.
I used an old antenna and fished it up through the hole. It
should come out on the side of the brake booster in the engine
bay.
Using duct tape secure the end of the O2 cable to the wire fish
and pull it through the hole and into the interior of the vehicle.
Coil any remaining cable in the inside of the engine
compartment and secure it.
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Routing O2 Cable from Engine Compartment to Inside Vehicle
The interior trim needs to be removed to permanently mount the wideband module. Begin
by removing the silver dash trim below the gauge cluster. Start on the left side and pull the
piece off one clip at a time.
Next remove the knee panel surrounding the steering column. Begin by pulling the panel
from the bottom straight out working your way up. Disconnect the wiring harness from the
headlight switch.
Remove the side sail panel by pulling the front edge towards the door as though you were
opening a book.
Last piece to remove is the trim piece for the door air duct. Remove this piece of trim by
starting at the bottom and pulling straight out. There are some hooks at the top that hold it
into the trim piece above it.
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Removing Interior Trim
Using a fuse tap or equivalent device, connect the positive wire
to fuse location F14. I used this extra circuit accessory from
autozone that has two fuse slots. One fuse remains separate
for the original curcuit and the other is for the devises that are
connected to the wire of the accessory. i.e. wideband, radar
detector, etc... You can also use a wire tap here instead.
Crimp the blue wire butts using the crimping tool to connect the
positive wire to the accessory or wire tap.
Route the positive cable up behind the trim to the area where
the AFR module will be located.
Using duct tape, cover the sharp edge of any metal that the
positive wire may contact. Use cable ties to secure the positive
wire.
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Wiring the Positive Wire to the Fuse Box
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Place industrial strength velcro on the inside area of the drivers
side support bracket. Place the opposite side velcro on the
module itself. Place the module in place.
Route the O2 sensor cable and power cord to the proper
location to connect to the module.
Connect plug with the wires for the MPVI connector. Wire the
plug per the instructions provided by PLX and HP Tuners help
files.
Wire the module ground wire to the mounting bolt for the drivers
side support bracket.
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Mounting the Wideband Module and Wiring the Ground
It is important to reinstall the plug to seal cabin from water when
driving in the rain. Failure to due so will result in wet carpet.
Use a utility or xacto knife to cut a hole in the center of the plug.
Slip the plug over the end of the O2 cable. Leave enough of
the O2 cable inside the vehicle to reach the module.
Use rubbing alcohol as a lubricant on the lip of the plug so that
it is easier to slide into the firewall port.
Once in place, use some silicone sealant (I used some blue
RTV) to seal any gaps between the cable and plug. Again,
make sure you have enough cable to reach the module.
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Replacing the Firewall Plug
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Run the wire fish under the climate controls to the opening
behind the trim. Attach the MPVI connector to the wire fish and
pull it back through the opening.
Secure the wire using zip ties.
Attach velcro onto the MPVI connector and the underside of the
console so it can be hidden with not in use.
Reassemble the trim and lower the vehicle. Reconnect the
negative battery terminal.
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Remote Mounting Your MPVI Connector
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