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Tools Required for the Job
Perform at your own risk!
The information for this tutorial is based on my own experiences. It is meant to be working
instructions for the DIY'er attempting to perform this job at home. These instructions are how I
performed this procedure. I take no personal responsibility for any damage you may incur by
following these instructions.
Secure vehicle on jack stands. Always use jack stands when
working under the vehicle.
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Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove endlink from sway bar using a 14mm deep well socket
and a 17mm wrench to keep the endlink bolt from moving. If
you’re only replacing the swaybar there is no need to remove
the endlink from the strut mount assembly. If removing the
entire endlink mark the endlink identifying which side of the car
it was removed from and it's orientation (top or bottom).
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If you have the stock intake tube installed, remove it to allow
access to the D bushing clamp from the top. Typically an
aftermaket Cold Air Intake tube will not need to be removed to
gain access from the engine bay. Access the passenger side D
bushing clamp from the top in the engine bay. Set the nuts and
clamps off to the side as you will reuse them later.
Remove the D bushing clamps using a 13mm socket with a 1"
extension. I found it easier to remove the nuts with a swivel
head ratchet.
Access the drivers side D bushing clamp from the wheel well.
Remove the D bushings from the sway bar and discard unless
you would like to save them.
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Remove the sway bar from the passenger side wheel well. This will require quite a bit of
manuvering and a bit of patients to get the bar out.
From the drivers side wheel well, push the sway bar towards the passenger side. Get the
sway bar past the power steering line on the driver’s side. Make sure that the passenger side
sway bar end is not hitting anything in the passenger side of the wheel well that will not allow it
to pass through.
Move to the passenger side of the car. Remove the sway bar using a cranking type motion,
allowing it to clear the components within the engine bay.
Removing the OEM Sway Bar (Video):
Put the new sway bar in from the passenger side using the
same cranking motion.
Once the sway bar is at the opening of the drivers side wheel
well, you’ll have to push the power steering line over the end of
the sway bar on the drivers side in order to allow it to pass the
rest of the way through.
When the drivers side end gets past the power steering line let
the drivers side tie rod end hang down to allow room for the
sway bar end to come all the way out into the wheel well.
Ensure that nothing was damaged or came loose while
installing the new sway bar.
Reinstall the power steering inlet pipe using a 8mm socket.
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Cut the cable tie holding the factory wire on the passenger side
wheel well.
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Using an 8mm socket disconnect the power steering inlet pipe.
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Disconnect wheel sensor wire from wheel sensor.
Remove the Tie Rod End:
Using a 18mm socket remove the nut from the tie rod end at the
knuckle. If the tie rod stud starts to turn use a 6mm allen
wrench in the end of the stud to keep it from turning, and use a
18mm wrench to unscrew the nut.
Hit the steering knuckle with a hammer in the tie rod location to
shock the metal and loosen the tie rod stud from the knuckle.
After a few hits to the knuckle the tie rod stud should pop loose
from the steering knuckle. If the stud doesn't pop out, lightly tap
the end of the tie rod stud with the hammer. Ensure you do not
hit the threads on the stud.
Remove the Radius Rod End:
Using a 21mm socket remove the nut from the radius rod end at
the knuckle. If the radius rod stud starts to turn use a 10mm
wrench to secure the radius rod stud and use a 21mm wrench
to unscrew the nut.
Repeat the remaining removal procedure as discribed in
removing the tie rod end.
Repeat the tie rod and radius rod disconnect instructions on the
passenger side.
On both sides of the vehicle use a bungie cord to hold the tie
rod end and radius rod arm up and out of the way.
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Using the supplied grease apply a generous coating of grease
to the inside of new Pedders D bushings. Fit the D bushings
over the sway bar, just to the inside of the bushing stops that
are mounted on the swaybar. (I installed the bushing with the
slice pointing up)
Install the D bushing clamps and nuts. Torque to 16ft-lbs. Wipe
off any remaining grease from the outside of the bushing.
At this time I recommend replacing the Raduis Rod
bushings if you have them. (See Radius Rod bushing
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During my install the endlink bolt would not fit through the
pedders swaybar. I had to use a 3/8” drill bit and ream the hole
that I was mounting the endlink in. You just need to remove the
paint, that allows enough room for the bolt to fit through the bar
end.
Reinstall the endlink to sway bar using a 14mm deep well
socket and a 17mm wrench to keep the endlink bolt from
moving. Torque to 37ft-lbs.
Place the radius rod ball joint into the steering knuckle and
torque to 30ft-lbs + 60 degrees.
Place the tie rod ball joint into the steering knuckle and torque
to 19ft-lbs + 120 degrees.
Reinstall the zip tie to the wire assembly that was removed
earlier.
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Time required to complete the job: ~ 1.5 hours
